Hanukkah is coming – the first night is Dec. 25 – and I’m thumbing through my Joyce Goldstein collection for inspiration.
Crostini di Spuma di Tonno, Zuppa di Pesce Passato, Dolce di Tagliatelle. Jewish food? For the Jews of Italy the answer is a resounding “Yes.”
In 1957, cookbook author Joyce Goldstein made her first trip to Italy and instantly became what she calls a “fanatic Italophile.” Daughter of Russian immigrants, this award-winning author threw herself into Italian art, architecture, language, culture … and food.
Out of her travels and study came “Cucina Ebraica: Flavors of the Italian Jewish Kitchen” (Chronicle Books, $37.24), an exhaustively researched homage to a cuisine dating as far back as Roman times.
In “Sephardic Flavors: Jewish Cooking of the Mediterranean” (Chronicle Books, $24.37) Goldstein expanded her culinary adventure into Spain, Portugal, Greece and Turkey, as well as her beloved Italy. Both books contain menu suggestions for Hanukkah as well as the Sabbath and other holidays.
Traditionally, Hanukkah dishes are fried in oil. When Judah Maccabee and his tiny army defeated the Syrian-Greeks, they found only a tiny flask of oil with which to purify the desecrated Temple. Miraculously, it burned for eight days, setting off a frying frenzy that has lasted for centuries.
“Deep frying is an old Roman Jewish tradition,” notes Goldstein, and there are many appetizing choices for Hanukkah. Try the Sicilian Potato Croquettes for a nice change from latkes.
“My grandchildren love them,” she said. “They’re round and small, and they can eat them with their fingers, just pop them in their mouths.”
Of course, they love latkes too, which Goldstein serves with either applesauce or her favorite topping from childhood, just plain sugar.
Some form of Fritto Misto (mixed fry) would also be appropriate for Hanukkah.
“The Roba Fritta comes from the tradition in Andalusia in Spain where they had all those fry shops. It is almost like tempura in a way,” Goldstein said.
Hanukkah fritters have become another Goldstein family favorite, a Mediterranean dessert with an Italian honey topping, but “as a change of pace, you could dip these briefly in a classic Middle Eastern sugar-and-water syrup seasoned with cinnamon stick and orange zest,” she suggested.
The croquettes offered here are less greasy than traditional latkes. Conveniently, you can form them ahead of time and keep them refrigerated until time to cook. Or cook them in advance and reheat them later at 300 degrees. Follow the breading instructions carefully to avoid having them crack in the hot oil.
Locally, on Sunday, Dec. 15, at 11 a.m. Temple Beth Tikvah in Fullerton is hosting a Holiday Bazaar & Quartermania, a fun event that’s a mashup of an auction and a raffle, in which you bid on vendor baskets using quarters. The public is invited.
These baskets include cutting boards, Judaica, crocheted gifts, baked goods and fused glass, for starters. Tickets are $20 at the door and include lunch, refreshments, one Quartermania paddle and one raffle ticket.
Fullerton’s Judy Bart Kancigor is the author of “Cooking Jewish” and “The Perfect Passover Cookbook.” Her website is cookingjewish.com.
SICILIAN POTATO CROQUETTES
Adapted from “Sephardic Flavors” by Joyce Goldstein. Yield: 6 servings
Ingredients:
• 2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, cut into 2-inch chunks
• Salt plus freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 2 large egg yolks
• 2 green onions, finely chopped
• 1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
• 1/3 cup finely grated Pecorino-Romano cheese
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
• 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 2/3 cup dried breadcrumbs
• Vegetable oil for frying
Method:
1. Cover potatoes with water in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Add salt; reduce to simmer. Cook until potatoes are tender, about 12 minutes. Drain; return potatoes to pan off burner; let dry 2 minutes. Purée potatoes with a food mill, ricer or potato masher. Place in a mixing bowl; cool to room temperature. Mix in yolks, onion, parsley and cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate until ready to form.
2. Shape 2 heaping tablespoons into 2-inch pucks. Coat croquettes evenly with flour, then beaten egg, then breadcrumbs. Place on a tray dusted with breadcrumbs.
3. Pour 3/4 inch oil into deep skillet; heat over medium-high heat. When oil is hot, fry croquettes in batches until golden brown, adjusting heat if necessary, about 2 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels and serve hot.
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