For those of us who reside in Southern California, it can feel like summer lingers. When I was growing up in the San Fernando Valley, the temperatures always seemed hottest in September, often spreading their warmth well into October. Ratatouille, rich in summer’s bounty, is most often viewed as a summer dish, but I hold onto its glorious flavors well into warm-weather autumn.

Serve this skillet version over cooked rice, farro, or pasta and it is a luscious one-dish meal. If using ratatouille as a topping, cut the vegetables smaller and reduce the cooking time. If I’m using it cold or at room temp, I accompany it with pita bread or baguette slices, and I omit the sausage. If omitting the sausage, start with step No. 3. Place 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil in the pan and add the vegetables as directed. Ratatouille can be prepared a day in advance, cooled, refrigerated, and then reheated.

Skillet Ratatouille — With Or Without Sausage

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS

Optional: 1 pound hot or sweet Italian sausage, or some of both

About 2 tablespoons olive oil

5 Japanese eggplants (cut into 1/2-inch slices) or 1 medium-large eggplant (cut into quarters lengthwise and then into 1/2-inch slices)

2 large yellow onions, peeled, cut in half and thinly sliced

2 yellow bell peppers, cored and seeded, cut into strips

1 red bell pepper, cored and seeded, cut into strips

4 medium-large ripe tomatoes, about 1 pound, cut into 1-inch chunks

Pinch of ground fennel

3-4 zucchini or patty pan squash, sliced

2/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil

Salt and pepper to taste

For serving: cooked rice, farro, or pasta

Garnish: grated Parmesan cheese

DIRECTIONS

1. Line a microwave-safe plate with 3 layers of white paper towels. To reduce fat, poke holes in sausage on all sides with a fork. Place in a single layer on towels and cover with a paper towel. Microwave on high power for 4 minutes. When cool enough to handle, remove sausage and cut into 1 1/2-inch slices.

2. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a Dutch oven or large, deep skillet. Add sausage and cook on medium-high heat, stirring or shaking pan frequently, to brown sausage on all sides. Remove sausage with a slotted spoon.

3. Add eggplant, onion and bell pepper. Add 1 or 2 tablespoons of olive oil if pan looks dry. Cook on medium heat for about 8 minutes, stirring or shaking pan frequently, until vegetables start to soften.

4. Add sausage (if using), tomatoes, fennel and squash. Cover and simmer on low until vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes.

5. Add basil and season to taste with salt and pepper. If there is a lot of juice, strain off the solids (either by using a slotted spoon or pouring mixture through a colander, reserving juices in skillet). Cook juices on high heat until reduced by two-thirds. Return vegetables to reduced juices. Place cooked rice or pasta in shallow bowls. Ladle ratatouille on top. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. Serve with crusty, warm bread.

Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at @CathyThomas Cooks.com.

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